Poland

Our final port came a mere two days after Finland, and it rather shocked us all. One thinks of Gdansk in terms of the Solidarity Movement and the Shipyards, hardly things to provoke images of beauty and architectural wonder. Yet it is a stunning city with buildings and vistas that draw thousands of tourists a day from the cruise ships that come to visit. It is reconstructed, of course, because it was bombed during World War II (in fact, the war started here, and there is a monument in Westerplatte where the first bomb dropped).

As we crossed the bridge into Gdansk, the views were breathtaking, and continued all day as we wandered around the streets.

Summer brings not only tourists, but also a three-week street fair/market which bustled with arts and crafts, street food (perogies, chicken), and lively hubub.

After a quick rest back on the ship, we met friends for dinner in Gdansk's premier restaurant, "Pod Lososiem" ("Under the Salmon") in a 17th-century townhouse that has been in the same family for several generations. The meal was superb, but the blini with caviar and the salmon covered with gold leaf (!) were truly memorable.

Day 2 took us out to the countryside with our Interport Lecturer, Nora Orlowska and her husband Andrezj, to their summer residence. Janna got to call the grandkids on Facetime, so she was happy! Lovely lakes and forest, plus a weird/wonderful outdoor museum that had sample houses from Kasabian exiles (a bunker, a Siberian gulag hut, longest table in the world, largest piano in the world, an upside down house, etc.). And then we visited the home of his great-great-uncle, who wrote the Polish National Anthem. Nice.

The food is delicious here, although the menu explanations often have a touch of true originality.

On Day 3 (the days are winding down) we went to Malbork, the largest brick castle in Europe, and it's a stunning sight.